The other day I received an email from a potential customer who said she would buy my facial cream if I would sell it to her with an all-natural preservative instead of the preservative I use. She wanted only a 100% natural cream.
If this important step is skipped, the product should not be used.
The manufacturer says products should be stored in amber or cobalt glass to preserve products made with this ingredient because light can destroy it. Unfortunately, many of the businesses I have seen using this do not follow that guideline and its preservative effects will be considered null.
It is actually Glyceryl Monocaprylate, which is a fatty ester. It has been used over the years as a penetration enhancer--so topical medications will be absorbed through the skin more easily.This is the ingredient in Naturaguard.
Truth be told, I *wish* there was a 100% natural preservative with years of testing behind it effective at keeping mold, bacteria and yeast away. In reality there is no such thing as an all natural preservative to protect against all 3. I should say 4, as fungus would also be of concern. If you find a shop marketing something as containing an "all natural" preservative, read on and stay informed. Preservatives need to be used in oil and water mixtures in order to prevent bacteria, mold, fungus, and yeast. If you see an all-natural lotion know that it will last in the fridge for about a week.
I have scoured dozens of shops and found some neat claims about the "all natural preservatives."
Let's look at some of these and find out more before you hit the "add to cart" button.
MYTH #1: Grapefruit Seed Extract is an all natural preservative.
GSE is not all natural. People often confuse Grapefruit Essential Oil with Grapefruit Seed Extract. The essential oil is all natural and is great for aromatherapy. Actually, the name Grapefruit Seed Exract is misleading. One would assume that GSE is pulverized grapefruit seeds. It is anything but. What is Grapefruit Seed Extract then? GSE actually comes from chemically-altered grapefruit seeds which have been treated with Ammonium Chloride and other chemicals via a most unnatural chemical process.
Does GSE preserve products in any way? Not really. Some people believe GSE may be mildly preservative, but research has consistenly shown that it is ineffective and that it is actually the tainted chemical components used to preserve the GSE itself--including triclosan, benzethonium chloride, and methylparaben-that are doing the tiny bit of preservation. In other words, a paraben-free business may be using GSE which actually might have parabens in it.
MYTH #2: Vitamin E and Rosemary Oleoresin Extract are all-natural preservatives.
Wrong again. These 2 ingredients are antioxidants. Antioxidants are good. They help fight free radicals.
When used in a product, it can help to protect your more sensitive oils from oxidizing and becoming rancid. It is NOT a preservative. I use ROE in my eye balm and sleep balm--not to preserve (as there is no water & oil mixture to require a preservative), but to protect the oils.
MYTH #3: Herbal tinctures and extracts are natural preservatives.
When you see an ingredients listing and a product description indicating that the product is all-natural and preserved only with herbal blends, extracts, and tinctures, this is very misleading. What is not being revealed on the ingredients list is that it is only a "preservative" because some tinctures and extracts are preserved in butylene and propylene glycol. In other words, that "natural" ingredient used to "preserve" your product actually contains about 50-75% toxins.
MYTH #4: Grain alcohol is a safe, natural preservative.
No! Grain alcohol (ethyl alcohol) is NOT an effective preservative. While it is antibacterial, it would need to be used at a level of around 70% in the product to be effective. I don't know about you, but if I put a product with mainly alcohol on my skin, it would be drier than the Arizona desert in the summer time. Even if you would venture to try using it on your skin at such a high level, it will not protect against mold, fungus, and yeast.
There are a whole host of other "all natural preservatives" out there.
One new "fad" is using a preservative with silver citrate and citric acid. I would not use this until many modifications have been made. The problem with this is that there are many contraindications and many conditions which MUST be followed to make sure this is used properly. There are many ingredients that cannot be used with silver citrate. If the pH level isn't measured properly each and every time with every batch, this will be ineffective.
The person formulating a product with this, I would suggest, should have years of experience making products and should be sure to have products made with this tested appropriately. The formulator must stabilize the preservative before using it with 2 ingredients: Hydroxyethyl Urea (this is derived from the urine and other bodily fluids of animals) and Citroflex (a mixture of ethanol and citric acid).
The manufacturer says products should be stored in amber or cobalt glass to preserve products made with this ingredient because light can destroy it. Unfortunately, many of the businesses I have seen using this do not follow that guideline and its preservative effects will be considered null.
Naturaguard
This is a newer product being touted as an all natural preservative.
I have seen products recently cropping up with this ingredient in it. The one thing that is lacking, however, in most of these products is the other ingredient that MUST be used along with the Glyceryl Monocaprylate to render it effective in any way as a preservative: Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Benzoic Acid or Sorbic Acid. I tried this preservative a few months back with high hopes. Two problems were evident: #1, it irritated my skin when used in the smallest recommended concentration and #2, not enough research has been done on this when used as a preservative.
These are food-grade preservatives. They keep cropping up in creams and lotions as a "natural preservative". While it is, indeed, a natural preservative, it is not broad spectrum. In other words, these cannot protect the products made with oils and water from bacteria, mold and yeast. I use sorbic acid in my facial scrub, which is water-free. It contains honey and sugar with the oils, so I use the sorbic acid to help retain freshness even though there isn't water in the product.
Potassium Sorbate and Sorbic Acid
These are food-grade preservatives. They keep cropping up in creams and lotions as a "natural preservative". While it is, indeed, a natural preservative, it is not broad spectrum. In other words, these cannot protect the products made with oils and water from bacteria, mold and yeast. I use sorbic acid in my facial scrub, which is water-free. It contains honey and sugar with the oils, so I use the sorbic acid to help retain freshness even though there isn't water in the product.
Black Willow Bark Extract
When used in combinaton with other ingredients, this can be mildly anti-microbial. That being said, it is not without flaws. For those who are not into researching their ingredients, they may be unaware that this is a natural form of salicylic acid, a relative of aspirin. Pregnant and breastfeeding women cannot use this ingredient. I know in my own case, pregnancy was when I started caring about what was going into my skin. Many other women do. Women may buy these natural creams containing Black Willow Bark thinking it is the better alternative without realizing that it cannot be used during pregancy or while breastfeeding.
The Bottom Line
As always, take a bit of time to look at the ingredients list when you buy. If ingredients are not listed on a product (which is commonplace online and even in retail (specifically ULTA lipstick), then don't buy. If you're tempted, ask for a complete ingredients listing. Many online shops will feature an ingredients list stating only "...and preservatives". Given that there are so many possible preservatives, if a company will not list it on the ingredients list (as required by the FDA's labeling policy), make sure you ask questions before you buy. Since the FDA doesn't seem to care about unsafe ingredients, YOU are your best advocate!
26 comments:
What a great run down, thanks, since I make my own products. I make sure to let people know about why I use vitamin e and no other preservatives. You mentioned items I didnt even know about. I appreciate learning more and that the only way for people to understand about natural product is through education. Chemicals are not bad when they help you stay healthy.
You've touched a sensitive subject and took the high road, very professional. thanks
Hi Karley. Thank you so much for writing this article. I have been educating my friends about preservatives in bath and body products for a while now. Some think I'm crazy! I'm completely against formaldehyde releasers (They use that to preserve cadavers=dead bodies for health science students. Why would anybody put that on his/her face?!?!) I looked up diazolidinyl urea on Wikipedia the other day and was really surprised to find that it was actually in fact CONFIRMED to cause cancer (not just a carcinogen suspect but a real one!). I looked it up to let a girl know that the "natural" deodorant that an Etsy shop was selling was actually not "natural" (It has diazolidinyl urea). The girl asked the Etsy owner about it, and the owner told her that, below a certain concentration, diazolidinyl urea wouldn't release formaldehyde. I was really confused. If it wasn't releasing anything, where was the preservative effect? I just don't understand why the preservatives that are banned in EU and Japan are deemed "safe" in America (Do we Americans some how have thicker and stronger skin?) I've always wondered about rosemary extract and vitamin e too. Thanks for doing all the research and making sure you're using the best preservatives.
Jenn,
I agree. I think I mentioned before, but I used to use natural deodorants from Etsy, but the #1 ingredient is propylene glycol and they all seen to contain DU.
I REALLY wish the FDA would do what they have done in the EU and Japan. I was reading not long ago about a study in the EU that showed a significant decrease in breast cancer cases after these regulations went into effect.
Thank you for the article. Most of the close to natural products (that contain water) that I use are preserved using optiphen. When I started 'going green' with the products I use I wondered if a natural alternative to optiphen was possible but soon realized that unless the said product was water free that was not possible. thank you for further clarifying things..:)
What an informative posting. I often wonder why we need all of these preservatives when for centuries herbalists have made natural, preservative-free products that have lasted for more than a few days. Although this posting is about so-called natural preservatives, another preservative that you should highlight is Phenonip, which is a mixture of 5 different parabens (each should be listed on ingredient labels separately in my opinion). I used to buy a cream that was all-natural except for the Phenonip, and when I discovered what it was I had to stop purchasing it (although I loved it so much).
I am amazed by the existence, however rare, of herbalists who know how to mix products for optimum benefit so that bacteria doesn't form, or it forms at a very minute level. I know one such lady who makes her products with natural herbs and organic extracts (not preserved in butylene and propylene glycol) that preserve the product for about 2-3 mos. if stored at cool temperatures. Also, Ayurvedic herbalists from India also make products without traditional "natural" and synthetic preservatives, balancing the synergy of herbal blends to achieve a natural preservation effect.
I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on this. Thanks again for a great post!
Scentual,
I didn't bring up the paraben blends simply because I've been very clear about my feelings on parabens since 2007. Phenonip is horrible--I agree.
As someone who studies both the use of herbs along with my aromatherapy studies after college, I have no doubt about the antibacterial properties of products and ingredients made by Ayurvedic practitioners. That being said, no matter how amazing the herbalist (and I believe in the power of herbs and essential oils), there is no way to ensure that the products are protected in a broad specturm manner--fungus, bacteria and mold.
While they product may appear safe and free of the nasties, only challenge testing (sending to a lab) would show the efficacy of the product. Even products that look completely fresh and safely preserved with the synergistic blends may be full of microscopic "critters".
Challenge testing in a lab (which is generally not seen as necessary by traditional herbalists) would show something else, I would be willing to bet.
She may be creating great things for person use (I know I often make a lotion without preservatives for me here that I will discard after 5 days in the fridge), but to sell it without one could be catastrophic.
I love a line called 100% Pure - but I really wonder how their products are preserved based on the ingredient lists - so I just buy ones that don't have water in them. Seems like the best choice in those cases. Have you ever tried them? Burt's Bees is another one that seems to think Vit E is enough of a preservative too come to think of it.
CG-Burt's often uses something called lactoperoxidase (made by Biovert Systems and only available in large manufactuer's sizes. It is glucose blended with glucose oxidase and lactoperoxidase. It helps to maintain the intregrity of a product.
It is extremely sensitive to oxygen and light and the actual preservative itself must be stored at a certain temp in the fridge at all times.
With my own Burt's items, I have had some go bad before, so I always use them within 6 months (the same with 100% Pure, which I would use within 3 to 6 months personally while storing in the fridge).
I have always been apprehensive of the 100% Pure products with water in them. A large company like that, however, may find it much easier for the liability concerns than a small company with general product liability insurance.
I wonder too about the cumulative effect products that are naturally preserved and may see some development of bacteria in them vs. the cumulative effect of products that are chemically preserved but largely bacteria-free.
As we know, there are both "good" bacteria as well as harmful ones. Only further research on natural preservation efforts AND on the true effects of a minimal amount of bacteria in products can ensure that we aren't being too quick to buy up chemically-preserved products for fear of bacteria. I wonder too if the bacteria (a minimal amount) may not be doing us as much harm overall compared to synthetic additives, which have yet to be time-tested, and certainly previous generations (before WW2) did not sure them at all. ...
I look forward to more rigorous, longitudinal studies on this issue. In the meantime, I continue to make the wisest, least-comprising decisions for myself and for my family. :)
Shanesha--I totally agree on you being the best person to make decisions on what to put on your family's skin.
You mentioned "good bacteria". One of the key concerns about not using a preservative if a not so good bacteria (staph), which can be deadly. Besides bacteria, there are concerns with ingredients: mold, fungus, yeast, etc.
If one wants to offer "naturally preserved" products to the public, however, it would be a HUGE liability and health issue.
True, there are other things to be concerned about besides bacteria, and I also wonder if the cosmetic industry can be more precise about preservation needs and techniques. For instance, what difference is there if one uses floral or herb-infused water instead of distilled (or worse) tap water? What about using ingredients that are not purse water but have a natural high water content, such as aloe? What ratio of water to oils is ideal for minimal preservation needs? In what instances does herbalism knowledge trump scientific knowledge and vice versa? And, at what percentage does water become an *increasing* liability for bacteria, fungus, yeast and mold (i.e., 20% total water content vs. 70%, etc.)?
The Environmental Working Group has reported that 89% of ingredients used in personal care products have not been tested for safety by the FDA or other accountable institutions. This begs the question about the safety of many ingredients more generally, and not just preservatives. Again, the cumulative effect here is what we really need to be concerned about. Pinpointing singular ingredients helps, but is only part of the answer. I'm glad that your "What's In It Wednesdays?" posts usually examine *all* of the ingredients in products, as does the website Skin Deep.
There are so many data gaps that need to be filled, and you've inspired me to do my own posting on a related topic. Thank you again for informing your blog readers about this very important issue.
You raise very valid points.
Part of the problem is the notion that it is "easy" to just come up with a product recipe. It is critical that small businesses selling these products spend LOTS of time researching and thoroughly testing their products before introducing them to the public--months or years, not days and weeks.
Part of the problem is inadequate testing, lack of pH testing, and incorrect calculations when formulating--adding even a slightly greater amount than recommended, for example, of preservative could cause adverse reactions. Adding not quite enough could render a product unsafe for use. Adjusting a base, for example, would also alter the product and different amounts of preservative would be necessary.
If one isn't knowledgeable in chemistry and aesthetics, or up on doing research, one has no business being in this industry--my 2 cents.
Lack of product testing is also of concern. I wouldn't, for example, suggest introducing a product that hasn't been tried and tested for months at least. My first batch of CP soap (when it was offered) was made in 2003. It became available for sale in 2006. I started developing my eye cream in the spring of 2007. It became available in the fall of 2008. I have products coming out that I started working on and testing back when Ben was still in a crib.
Enough time has to be allowed to ensure a consistently safe product--for both consumer safety and liability concerns.
Let's touch upon the water issue: Any amount of water can be a breeding ground for the nasties. I would hope that a business NEVER use tap water in their products. Tap water is so full of various trace minerals--not to mention other stuff. Think of people who toss their medications out. This, as we've discussed on Chic & Green before, can get into the water supply. So, say someone is throwing out their heart medicine or pain killers.
Theoretically, these drugs can be leeched into the water supply. If tap water is used as opposed to distilled, which as had the chemicals removed and has been purified, trace amounts of drugs could be present in the water.
The bottom line, and I think we agree, is that the FDA and researchers need to get on the ball
and start taking a much more active role in the cosmetics and toiletry industry. So many ingredients have not been properly tested, and if safety concerns show up, they turn the other cheek.
It is crazy that if something was deemed unsafe in the EU and Japan YEARS ago, that it is A-OK to use in the US...it boggles my mind.
Take Vaseline, for example. It is BANNED for sale in the EU, but it is probably one of the top "skin care" items in this country. Why it is unsafe in the EU, but OK here?
No matter where we stand in this issue as to how natural to go when it comes to formulation, more needs to be done to ensure that the "bad" ingredients proven to cause serious health problems, be pulled off the market.
Well said, Karley. I'm totally with you on all you've said here. There are products that I personally have been developing for several months that have not been released yet because they are still in the very important stage of testing and adjustment. Research is a very important part of this stage as well, and our research doesn't stop, as you continue to illustrate on your blog by being an experienced b&b business owner who continues to learn more and share your knowledge with others. I look forward to more What's In It Wednesdays postings.
The idea of avoiding preservatives altogether just seems smart. All store-bought brands must use preservatives to maintain their products’ shelf life through warehousing and distribution.
Support Small Business Handmades.
By using essential oils that have been extracted via cold-pressed methods to preserve the natural oil, these oils are fresh and unchanged.
The basic rule for home made beauty care -
- Keep the recipe simple.
- Sterilize and dry all the equipments and containers if you will be storing your items for any length of time.
- Ideally it is best to make small batches of the product that you would use each day unless the use of a preservative such as vitamin tocopherol (vitamin E in it's pure form)
- Do a patch test before trying out any home made beauty recipes to avoid nasty side effects.
- Hygiene and cleanliness is all important.
Helena,
If you are making a product for yourself, this is fine (remembering to throw out unused water-oil products within 1 week).
One thing, however, that I need to point out to avoid confusion is your statement that tocopherol (Vit, E) is "a preservative." This is untrue. Vitamin E is only an antioxidant and is NOT a preservative.
Essential oils are NOT adequate preservatives either. Don't get me wrong, I am an aromatherapist as well and love using them.
When people market their products for use to the public and say that they are preserved with an antioxidant, it is irresponsible (and a HUGE liability issue).
Helena,
I wanted to also comment on this statement:
"All store-bought brands must use preservatives to maintain their products’ shelf life through warehousing and distribution."
It is not warehousing and distribution that is the reason preservatives are needed. No matter what the brand may, from Cathy Crafter at home to Avon--preservatives are needed in oil and water formulas so consumers are not buying products with mold, yeast, other microbes not always visible to the naked eye.
Well Karley, this isn't a witch hunt. It's giving people options to choose. It all comes down to the quality of ingredients you choose to make your products. I carefully choose my bulk products from certified organic only farms or local co-ops, grow my own botanicals, use cold-pressed organic oils, springwater, Natural Vitamin E, Organic Aloe Vera Gel and use only high quality essential oils. So I pay a little more for my ingredients to ensure the quality of my products, since I use them, my family uses them. When I sell my products, I never mislead the consumer with fancy touting labels and I certainly don't discredit my fellow herbalists, wildcrafters and other homemade vendors for the sake of making a buck. I offer a healthier alternative - after all, beauty is only skin deep, how you take care of onself with a healthy lifestyle should be the main concern for our mind, body and soul.
Helena,
This absolutely is not a witch hunt, and you are right that it IS about giving people options. It is also about being as educated an informed as one can be, no matter if one chooses to go "100% Natural" or purchase paraben-containing products (which you know I do not advocate).
I am not discrediting anyone to make a buck, so I take offense to that. If you are a CHIC & GREEN reader on a regular basis, then you will know I am a huge SUPPORTER of Indie businesses and recommend dozens.
I never have mentioned ANY Indie brands in this post, including your own unpreserved creams with milk or your 2 ounce $60 cream which is unpreserved yet contains rosewater as the number one ingredient mixed with the oils.
The point is that it is irresponsible and potentially dangerous to claim that jasmine essential oil or lemon will preserve a cream containing water.
No matter how much your essential oils cost (and knowing how many hundreds of dollars a month I spend I mine, I know the cost for high-quality essential oils), that does not give them the ability to prevent bacteria, mold, yeast, etc.
I would like to add that a $60 product doesn't meant the quality is better than a $10 one.
I would be willing to bet if you have your products lab tested--as should already be done--that you might be surprised at the microscopic contaminants present.
As I have said before, making unpreserved products at home is one thing. That is just fine to do. Selling them to the public when the customer could potentially end up with a Staph infection is another.
Regular readers, I apologize in advance for my tone. This is an important issue, though.
"The mother of us all, the oldest of us all, Hard, splendid as rock, Let the beauty you love, be what you do. There are a thousand ways to kneel and kiss the earth"~ Rumi ~
Good luck to you and your business - Helena
To you as well, Helena.
Hi Karley. I support 100% of what you have said. You wrote this article (any many others) to educate your readers. I've never heard you say specifically, do not buy from this store or that store. You give us the information and leave us, the readers, with the choice of what we will put on our skin. You're not the first person that's mentioned that with water being an ingredient, preservatives are a must. I am always skeptical of scrubs and body butters made without a preservative because the shop owners say that there's no water in it (True, the unused product doesn't have any water, but a scrub is used in the shower, and water will definitely get into the product). I also agree and appreciate the fact that good and effective products do not have to cost an arm and a leg. This is why I believe in your products and also Ilona's. I appreciate the fact that she's sent her products to the Florida health department and also that she's taken out insurance on her company because she cares for her customers and her products. I appreciate your always being candid and the knowledge you share about products. Thank you, Karley.
Jenn,
Thank you (and you're welcome).
I do not think in this day and age that anyone should sell without insurance. It doesn't cost that much money and it really is CRITICAL to carry product liability insurance--it's a necessary step, just as being sure your business is "legal" in terms of all of the necessary forms, registrations and paperwork (as required by local and state law).
Some states require lab testing, some require none. Testing, while costly, is necessary.
Hi Karley,
Wanted you to make note of one thing. The silver citrate and citric acid preservative is a great option for many formulators. However, you give a bit of misinformation in your post when you say that it "must" be stabilized with citroflex and hydrovance before use. That is ONLY the case if you do not want to pH adjust the formula to the appropriate range prior to adding silver citrate and citric acid solution - i.e. the lazy way out.
-Jared
Hi Jared,
You are right that perhaps I did misword that a bit--I should have said how crucial it is to pH adjust before adding the preservatives. Unfortunately, there are way too many people who do NOT pH adjust (just like they skip laboratory challenge testing and other--in my eyes--imperative steps).
Yippeeeeee, I agree with all you say about preservatives and about essential oils, THEY ARE NOT PRESERVATIVES, this message needs to be aired as loudly as possible.
I live in the EU (England) and preservatives have to be used, although there should be a standard check for all manufacturers (which there isn't).
The one comment I must make, about an earlier comment on vaseline.....we do have vaseline here in the EU, it's sold in little pots as lip balm!! as well as larger tubs. I don't understand why! Who in their right mind would want to use a petrol based oil on their mouth...........yuck.
Keep up the good work :o)
Hi Anonymous,
Thank you for reading and understanding the importance of preserving products.
Regarding the petrolatum ban in the EU:
Petrolatum was banned in the EU in 2004, as it then became classified officially as a carcinogen. This is part of the UNECE 2004-EU's Dangerous Substances Directive (which is viewable on the official EU site and list of regulatory links). In September 2004 the ban went through and the sale of products containing petrolatum is prohibited unless the manufacturer can provide the completely refining history, that it is free of any contaminants, and that it does not come from a carcinogen. It may be sold only if "...the full refining history is known and it can be shown that the substance from which it is produced is not a carcinogen." (Source: UNECE 2004).
So your Vaseline has been proven free of those contaminants--but it's still crude oil. Yuck!
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