You have undoubtedly heard about Creme de la Mer, a facial cream brought to you by Estee Lauder Companies Inc.
This moisturizer can be yours starting at $130 for 1 ounce. Bargain hunters will save a bit more money with the 16.5 ounce size for $1390.
Creme de la Mer is a celebrity favorite and can frequently be found mentioned in major beauty and fashion magazines. It was developed several decades ago by an aerophysicist named Max Huber. It is said that he wanted to find a treatment inspired by the sea to treat chemical burns. The main selling point of Creme de la Mer is something called Miracle Broth™.
To me, Miracle Broth™ sounds like a detoxifying weight loss product. Alas, it is not. So, what is in this cult favorite? Is it worth the money? For the record, I would never ever spend this amount of money on a facial care product. I had the chance to try a small jar of this a couple of years back, and to me, it felt no better than any heavier cream found in the aisles of CVS or Walgreens.
Let's find out more:
Let's break down the list of ingredients:
Seaweed (Algae) Extract-This is extracted from pondscum and seaweed. It actually is very good for the skin, as it is rich in minerals and is toning, moisturizing and gives a healthy glow.
Mineral Oil--That's liquid paraffin--liquid fuel, essentially (crude oil)
Petrolatum--Vaseline. Petrolatum was banned in the EU in 2004, as it then became classified officially as a carcinogen. This is part of the UNECE 2004-EU's Dangerous Substances Directive (which is viewable on the official EU site and list of regulatory links). In September 2004 the ban went through and the sale of products containing petrolatum is prohibited unless the manufacturer can provide the completely refining history, that it is free of any contaminants, and that it does not come from a carcinogen. It may be sold only if "...the full refining history is known and it can be shown that the substance from which it is produced is not a carcinogen." (Source: UNECE 2004).
Back to this dirty ingredient... This crude oil derivative has been shown to contain a contaminant called Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which get a 10 on a scale of 1 to 10 for the most toxic chemicals in the Cosmetics Database.
Many say petrolatum is harmless and unfairly "gets a bad rap." It's considered gentle for sensitive skin, most find it to be non-comedogenic, and doctors recommend it. I disagree with the generalization that it's OK to use on your body.
You see, the Food and Drug Administration does limit the amount of petrolatum when it comes to using it in food or medication. However, there is no regulation at all in terms of how much can be used in cosmetics and toiletries. That's how Vaseline and other products containing petrolatum are still sold in the US. You may also remember when it came to light in early 2007 that several dozen popular baby products on US shelves from brands like Johnson & Johnson, Gerber, and L'Oreal were contaminated with a known carcinogen called 1,4 Dioxane. PAHs fall into the same league as 1,4 Dioxane. You don't want to be applying this toxin on your face--or anywhere.
Glycerin--a humectant
Isohexadecane--a mixture of isoparaffins (again, from crude oil) found in higher end formulas because there's no odor or color and it can make a product feel rich & silky
Lime Extract--from the fruit of the lime, this gives not only a citrus scent, but can be used to treat oily skin
Microcrystalline Wax--highly refined paraffin wax, again from crude oil. This binds oils, can prevent products from sweating. You see this often in lipsticks.
Lanolin Alcohol--Emollient from oil glands of the sheep found in their wool. Many people are allergic to lanolin. It is a good moisturizer, though, for the most part.
Sesame Seed Oil--Rich in vitamin E, packs a great antioxidant punch. Works great as a body oil!
Eucalyptus Leaf Oil--Antibacterial, lends a strong fragrance, used to treat acne
Magnesium Sulfate--Epsom Salts; a potent anti-inflammatory agent. This easily absorbs into the skin, and if you are pregnant you need to consult your OB/GYN prior to using. Magnesium Sulfate is given via an IV as a treatment of pre-eclampsia and can lower blood pressure and increase the heart rate. Although it "should" be safe in cosmetics, this is one of those ingredients you need to be absolutely sure about.
Sesame, Alfafa & Sunflower Seeds--Protective with their vitamin E and antioxidant power when eaten, there is no conclusive data that these benefit the skin topically. If you consume these, they can help your skin look more radiant, but that is only when you ingest them.
Prunus Dulcis Powder--These are powdered almonds. They can stimulate circulation and have been used as a "skin whitener" in products for years.
Paraffin--A wax derived from crude oil
Vitamin E Succinate--AKA Alpha Tocopheryl Succinate, a potent antioxidant. Clinical trials have been used with this taken as a supplement because it's shown to possibly fight against cancer. In skin care, it is an antioxidant.
Niacin--Vitamin B3 can boost collagen levels, reduce a blotchy appearance, increase ceramide levels in the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It is also beneficial at treating sun spots.
Beta Carotene--a carotenoid. Beta carotene is coverted by your body to vitamin A. It is also an antioxidant and has shown promise when treating signs of sun damage.
Decyl Oleate--skin soothing agent, an ester of Oleic Acid and Decyl Alcohol; harmless.
Aluminum Distearate--This is highly irritating and should not go anywhere near eyes, nose or mouth. It's used to thicken the oils found in a product. Most likely, in this, it is used to help thick the sesame oil and mineral oil.
Octyldodecanol-- A harmless fatty alcohol to soften and condition the skin
Citric Acid--pH adjuster
Cyanocobalamin--a skin conditioner; there are many safer options out there.
Magnesium Stearate--increases viscocity
Panthenol--Vitamin B5; this is a moisturizer that penetrates right into the skin and can make it feel plumper
Limonene--skin sensitizer; for perfume. Banned in the EU
Geraniol--Masking fragrance, toning agent. Known to be a strong toxin; banned in the EU
Linalool--Masking fragrance; shown to be hazardous, banned in the EU
Hydroxycitronellal--Yet another masking fragrance! A known immune system toxicant; also banned in the EU
Citronellol--Shocking. ANOTHER masking agent. This stuff must've smelled horrid prior to all of these masking agents! Restricted in the EU.
Benzyl Salicylate--UV light absorber; can be used as a masking agent. An ester of BHA (Salicylic Acid) and Benzyl Alchohol; also banned in the EU.
Citral--a fragrance ingredient; recommended as something to be "Restricted" for use in cosmetics.
Methylchloroisothiazolinone--powerful preservative; shown in several studies to be toxic to the immune system. Restricted in many ccountries.
Methylisothiazolinone--powerful preservative; on the "Prohibited" or "Restricted" lists in many countries; an MIT study showed that it can negatively affect nerve cells and cause nerve death or damage.
Alcohol Denat--denatured alcohol, a solvent; extremely drying
Fragrance--synthethic ingredient to add a pleasant scent
The Chic & Green Verdict:
As you can see, Creme de la Mer's special "broth" is a blend of several crude oil ingredients and toxins. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone. It most certainly isn't worth $130 for the smallest jar!
By the way, if you still adore Creme de la Mer or are thinking of it, why not start with it's drugstore twin, Nivea Creme? I once mentioned to a friend that Creme de la Mer was "just OK". She told me she had heard that there was a drugstore cream that is almost identical. Yes, there is.
Available at Drustore.com, Nivea Creme, contains ingredients nearly identical to the high end cream. Seaweed extract is replaced by water here, but the bulk of the recipe--less a few toxins--is the same. It looks the same, feels the same, and even smells the same as Creme de la Mer!
You can buy it here (and I am not saying to run out and hit the buy button based on the ingredients) for $7.49 for a 6.8 ounce jar.
Here are the ingredients:
Water, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Alcohol, Paraffin, Panthenol, Alcohol, Magnesium Sulfate, Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Aluminum Stearate, Fragrance, Citric Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone
Next week, we'll take a look at another popular product!
