What's In It Wednesday: Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion

41 years ago, Clinique launched its best selling skin moisturizer called Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion. Some people swear by DDML. Others hate it. Let's take a look at this yellow lotion from Clinique and see if it is, indeed, dramtically different.

LIST OF INGREDIENTS (UNSAFE INGREDIENTS ARE IN GREEN):

Purified Water--Perfectly fine;it's just water that has been distilled to remove the impurities

Mineral Oil--This is a very inexpensive bi-product of petroleum. It is, in fact, LIQUID PETROLATUM (See more below about petrolatum).

Sesame Oil--Rich in vitamin E, packs a great antioxidant punch. Works great as a body oil, but some with acne flare ups may want to acid this.

Propylene Glycol--is used in conjunction with other chemical ingredients as a preservative. It is also found in products to make it easier for other added ingredients to penetrate the skin. This ingredient has been shown in studies to aggravate skin conditions such as eczema. This derivitave of mineral oil is considered a petrochemical. There are many different grades of PG: industrial grade is found in anti-freeze. Some will tell you that skin care products with propylene glycol just like anti-freeze. This isn't true--the kind in cosmetics is cosmetics grade. That being said, can cause contact dermatitis, especially in such a very high concentration.

TEA Stearate--While this is usually pretty safe, there has been more and more concern recently about it being contaminated with an impurity called Nitrosamines. I would not, personally, use this in something left on my skin. I would use it with confidence in a rinse-off product.

Glyceryl Stearate--AKA Peg-100 Stearate. I would absolutely avoid this one, as with all PEG ingredients. You may recall that PEG ingredients may be very toxic, containing 1,4 Dioxane. The Environmental Protection Agency has called this one of the most toxic ingredients ever. The EWG Skin Deep Database scores 1,4 Dioxane a 10 out of 10, 10 being the most hazardous.

Lanolin Alcohol--A thickener and emollient found in most lipsticks. A non-drying alcohol, this can be highly irritating to some. Note to vegans: Animal derived (from sheep's wool).

Petrolatum-- Petrolatum was banned in the EU in 2004, as it then became classified officially as a carcinogen. This is part of the UNECE 2004-EU's Dangerous Substances Directive (which is viewable on the official EU site and list of regulatory links). In September 2004 the ban went through and the sale of products containing petrolatum is prohibited unless the manufacturer can provide the completely refining history, that it is free of any contaminants, and that it does not come from a carcinogen. It may be sold only if "...the full refining history is known and it can be shown that the substance from which it is produced is not a carcinogen." (Source: UNECE 2004).

Back to this dirty ingredient... This crude oil derivative has been shown to contain a contaminant called Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which get a 10 on a scale of 1 to 10 for the most toxic chemicals in the Cosmetics Database.

Many say petrolatum is harmless and unfairly "gets a bad rap." It's considered gentle for sensitive skin, most find it to be non-comedogenic, and doctors recommend it. I disagree with the generalization that it's OK to use on your body.

You see, the Food and Drug Administration does limit the amount of petrolatum when it comes to using it in food or medication. However, there is no regulation at all in terms of how much can be used in cosmetics and toiletries. That's how Vaseline and other products containing petrolatum are still sold in the US. You may also remember when it came to light in early 2007 that several dozen popular baby products on US shelves from brands like Johnson & Johnson, Gerber, and L'Oreal were contaminated with a known carcinogen called 1,4 Dioxane. PAHs fall into the same league as 1,4 Dioxane. You don't want to be applying this toxin on your face--or anywhere.

Methylparaben--This particular paraben is used in water-containing products as a preservative.A study 5 years ago in theJournal of Applied Toxicologylinked parabens to breast cancer as they may be hormone disruptive and lead to tumor growth. While the jury is still out on paraben safety, I personally find the links too strong and have been paraben free for almost 2.5 years.

Propylparaben--this type of paraben is a preservative agent against fungus. A study 5 years ago in theJournal of Applied Toxicologylinked parabens to breast cancer as they may be hormone disruptive and lead to tumor growth. While the jury is still out on paraben safety, I personally find the links too strong and have been paraben free for almost 2.5 years.

FD & C Yellow #5--Contains Tartrazine, which is deemed unsafe for use in cosmetics. Concern about links between FD & C colorants and cancer have been present for years. I would avoid. This is extremely sensitizing and cause hives quite easily in people with mildly sensitive skin.

FD& C Yellow #6--Like most FD & C colors, this is very questionable. It is restricted in many countries. It is deemed unsafe for use near the eye area as well. Concern about links between FD & C colorants and cancer have been present for years. I would avoid.

FD&C Red #33--Concern about links between FD & C colorants and cancer have been present for years. I would avoid. Not considered safe for use on the skin.

Chic & Green Bottom Line:

Pass on this. It is full of probable toxins, artificial colorants, and crude oil derivatives. There is nothing in this to make it dramatically different. There are no antioxidants, skin soothing ingredients, actives, or anything of benefit in this. The Sesame Oil is nice, but it's pretty much the only decent ingredient in here.